It’s a frigid December morning and the men with stacks of bundled shawls have arrived at the ghats of river Jhelum for another cleaning outing. Much waters have already passed before their eyes and yet they remain constant witness of shifting sands of Aali Kadal – one of the seven iconic bridges of old city dotted with heritage structures and primary faithful centre. As pivotal members of Kashmir’s craft community, these washermen ensure the final sanitised touches to the iconic shawl before it graces some big global shelves. For now, as they wash, the rainbow of Kashmir’s craft colours only uplift the withered-wintery mood of the place.