It was a regular Sunday in Srinagar till the sun started setting into the placid waters of the Dal. I headed towards the lake along with a couple of friends, excited at having received an invitation to the celebratory occasion of the death anniversary of the Kashmir’s well-known Urdu poet, Akbar Jaipuri.
There was a massive traffic jam on boulevard, due to the tourist season and as we approached Zabarvan Park, the rush seemed to have increased double fold. Just opposite to its parking lot, a huge, decorated cruise stood afloat in the lake and on the jetty next to it, was displayed colourful banners. A big crowd had assembled there, engaged in animated conversations and exchange of pleasantries. I went and stood next to a few friends who in turn introduced me to others.
Soon we were all asked to board the donga which was to cruise along the lake. I took off my shoes at the entrance, walked right to the front, where a group of women were seated and made myself comfortable. I love interacting with people and since we were to sit with each for a long time, I decided to introduce myself and know them as well. We got talking and I started enjoying myself. I was no longer looking around for familiar faces. Kehwa was served to all of us and we were requested to quieten ourselves. The sound system was switched on, the musicians took their places and even while the sun was finally retiring for the day, our musical voyage had begun.
The evening commenced with the popular Ghazal originally sung by Mehndi Hassan Ranjish Hi Sahi followed by ChaapTilak. Everybody was visibly transported to another world, far from the hustle bustle of the noisy city and moods could be seen getting elevated with each ghazal.
The whos who of the city werein attendance there. From Aashique Bukhari (SSP Srinagar) to Dr. GhNabi Qasba (SMC Commissioner) to Dr. Shah Faesal ( Add DC Pulwama) to Dr. Naheed Soz(Managing Director of WDC) to Grand Mufti Of Kashmir, all were seen relaxed and pleased to be part of a cultural evening and be themselves for a change(devoid of official positions). As the cruise sailed further into the Dal, the city lights twinkling in the distance and the cool breeze which blew through my hair, gave a magical ring to the entire experience.
People were letting their hair down; unmindful of their surroundings. Once the cruise reached Char Chinar, it came to a halt. Some of us stepped out for a walk under the star lit sky and to soak in the mesmerizing moments. In the meanwhile, poetry continued within the cruise followed by a vote of thanks and gifting of poetry books and shawls to the dignitaries who had attended the occasion.
After that got over, a lady (a family member of the hosts) who had come to attend the gathering all the way from neighbouring Pakistan was invited to the microphone to share her experience of Kashmir so far. She spoke at length about the hospitality and love she and her family had received and how it had taken her an ordeal of an entire year before she was granted permission to visit here. However, everyone broke into loud laughter when she mentioned that people in Pakistan had the impression that Kashmiris were leading a very tough life and facing bullets everyday but, after having spent some days here, she had observed that conditions here were far better than people in Pakistan were facing.
Soon after, dinner was announced and all of us took our seats. It was a delight to have the lavish Wazvan in such beautiful company, amidst fun, laughter and light hearted banter. After dinner, almost everyone stepped outside for a walk and chitchat. No one seemed to be in a hurry to get back to the mainland. But alas, all good things must come to an end and we all were summoned to get back to the cruise as it was approaching the midnight hour. One could make out that each and every person was dragging himself back reluctantly. No one seemed to want the enchanted night to end. However, we all got back and the cruise set sail again. This time, the youngsters took charge of the music and what followed was absolute bonhomie. And before I forget to mention, it was a pleasure to watch the Grand Mufti of J&K, Mufti Azam Bashiruddin Ahmad listening appreciatively, with rapt attention to the musical treat with a smile on his face.
As the silence of the Dal was fragmented by the loud chants of Allahu, Allahu, Allahhu , a popular Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan number, one could only wish that this pure, pristine, Sufi culture which is the ethos of Kashmiriyat, once again comes back to life. With these thoughts playing in my mind, I did not realize that we had reached the shore and it was time to bid adieu to the lovely friends I had made during the journey.
The writer is the Managing Trustee of ‘ARNIMAAL’ – a voluntary Organization working in the valley, primarily with children. Reach her at [email protected]
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