Preservation of Kashmiri Shawls

By Mohammad Hanief

Valued for its warmth, light weight and characteristic buta design, the Kashmir shawl trade inspired the global cashmere industry. The shawl evolved into its high-grade, sartorial use in the 13th century and was used in the 16th century by Mughal and Iranian emperors, both personally and for honouring members of their durbar.

The production of Kashmiri shawls was greatly influenced by the Mughal and Persian cultures that flourished in the region during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Mughals, who were great patrons of the arts, encouraged the production of high-quality textiles, including Kashmiri shawls. 

The Persian influence on the design and embroidery techniques of Kashmiri shawls can be seen in the intricate floral and paisley motifs, as well as the use of rich colours and gold thread. The influence of Mughal and Persian culture on Kashmiri shawls is still evident in the designs and patterns used by weavers and embroiderers today.

About Kashmiri shawls it is said “Of all Indian textiles none excels in beauty, colour, texture and design as the famous Kashmir Shawl”. Shawls are produced by two techniques, loom woven or kani shawls and the needle embroidered or sozni shawls.

The basic fabric is of the three types – Shah Tush, Pashmina and Raffal. Shah Tush (King of wool) comes from a rare Tibetan antelope living at a height of over 14000 ft in the wilds of the Himalayas. Pashmina is known world over as cashmere wool, it comes from a special goat (Capra hircus) living at an altitude of 12000 to 14000 ft reared by shephered nomads around famous pongkong lake in close vicinity of western Tibet. Raffal is spun out of marino wool tops and is a popular type of shawl.

The shawls are embroidered in floral motifs, various designs available range from Neemdoor, Doordaar, Paladaar, Baildaar, Jaalis and Jammas, with the help of needle. Where as Kani shawls are woven on looms with the help of kanis. Kanis are small eyeless bobbins used instead of the shuttle.

In earlier times, shawls were used as a warm protective garment against cold weather. By the 13th century, Kashmir shawls had risen in status and quality and were commonly used as fashion statements. Shawls were marketed towards the ruling elite and foreign markets.

Technically the shawl as a garment and as a word comes from 14th century Persia. They were woven rectangles worn over the shoulders and made from kashmiri goat. That’s significant I think because Kashmir was a major trade center.

All these early shawls were woven. They were made in whatever fiber was on hand; silk in the east, cashmere in the near east, wool in the New World. They were square or rectangular in shape and usually large enough to wrap and fold around the body.

Decorative lace shawls seem to have come into fashion in the early 1800’s. The earliest styles were made on tambour or other netting with intricate designed stitched/embroidered on that base fabric. This seems to be when shawls became circular and triangular.

Kashmiri shawls have been an important part as they have been used in traditional ceremonies, weddings, and festivals. Kashmiri shawls have also been popular among the royal families of India and other parts of the world, who have appreciated their beauty and quality. 

In terms of fashion, Kashmiri shawls have been embraced by designers worldwide, who have incorporated them into their collections. They have been adapted to suit modern tastes, with contemporary designs and color schemes being introduced. Kashmiri shawls have become a timeless and versatile accessory, that can add an element of elegance and sophistication to any outfit. They are considered a must-have accessory in many fashion circles and are highly prized by collectors and enthusiasts.

Over time, the production of Kashmiri shawls evolved into an art form, with weavers and embroiderers creating intricate designs and patterns that were highly valued by royalty and the elite. The influence of Mughal and Persian cultures on the design and embroidery techniques of Kashmiri shawls can be seen in the intricate floral and paisley motifs, as well as the use of rich colors and gold thread. The use of fine materials such as pashmina and shahtoosh wool further contributed to the high value and prestige of Kashmiri shawls.

Shahtoosh shawls are even finer and more delicate than pashmina shawls, and are considered the ultimate luxury item. However, due to the endangered status of the Tibetan antelope, the production of shahtoosh shawls has been banned, and pashmina shawls have once again become the primary material used to make Kashmiri shawls. Today, Kashmiri shawls continue to be made using traditional techniques and materials, ensuring that the art of Kashmiri shawl-making is preserved for generations to come.

Kashmiri shawls are steeped in legends and stories that have been passed down through the generations. One of the most famous legends is that of the Jamawar shawls, which are known for their intricate patterns and designs.

Another famous story is that of the Kani shawl weavers, who were said to have been gifted with supernatural powers. Legend has it that the weavers could see the designs in their minds and weave them into the fabric without the use of a pattern. The Kani shawl weavers were highly respected and were often sought after by royalty and the elite.

Due to the high value placed on these shawls, they often served as heirloom pieces and family treasures that were passed down through generations. Families would take great care to preserve and protect their Kashmiri shawls, often storing them in special cases and only taking them out on special occasions. These shawls became symbols of family heritage and tradition, and were often viewed as priceless works of art.

In recent years, there has been a growing concern for the preservation of Kashmiri shawls, and the importance of sustainability in their production. The demand for Kashmiri shawls, coupled with the increasing popularity of fast fashion, has led to concerns about overconsumption and the impact on the environment.

To address these concerns, there has been a renewed interest in traditional techniques and sustainable practices in the production of Kashmiri shawls. This includes using natural dyes, sourcing materials from ethical and sustainable sources, and promoting fair trade practices in the industry.

Preservation of Kashmiri shawls is also being addressed through initiatives aimed at educating the public about the cultural and historical significance of these shawls, and the importance of preserving them for future generations. This includes efforts to promote the use of Kashmiri shawls in modern fashion, and to support the livelihoods of local artisans and weavers who continue to practice traditional techniques.

Kashmiri shawls are not just beautiful and luxurious garments, but also represent a rich cultural history and tradition that dates back centuries. They have been treasured by people from all over the world for their exquisite craftsmanship and intricate designs, making them an important symbol of Kashmiri heritage.

The art of Kashmiri shawl making is a delicate and intricate process that requires a great deal of skill and patience, and is often passed down from generation to generation. As such, it is crucial that we take steps to preserve this art form and support the artisans and weavers who practice it.

• The author can be mailed at [email protected] –X (Twitter): @haniefmha

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