By Rhys Gonsalves
Mumbai– The bustling streets of Mumbai have long been a hub of trade for exquisite Kashmiri craftsmanship. Thousands of Kashmiri traders would flock to Mumbai annually to showcase their intricate designs and impeccable craftsmanship. However, the once highly sought after rich heritage of Kashmiri artistry is facing a challenging time in this bustling metropolis.
The declining demand is not only robbing the livelihood of thousands of traders and craftsmen back home but poses a threat to the preservation of Kashmir’s rich cultural heritage.
Paras Khan from Ali Kadal in downtown Srinagar, who owns a shop at Colaba called ‘Kashmir Novelties’, says compared to other places like Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, there are fewer tourists here, but Mumbai with its own charm and class has always been a paradise for high end shoppers. Traditionally Kashmiri crafts have had a niche clientele. Mumbai’s elite class, corporate sector and tourists were main buyers. Shawls were more like an investment here. There used to be wealthy Indians, who would buy shawls and present them as dowry. The finest of shawls – the Pashmina was widely available here. The luxury market was dominated by the handloom industry and this was long before. There was demand, but there wasn’t enough supply because there weren’t as many resources as there are now,” Khan said.
Yasir Shah, another trader from the valley, has been in Mumbai for over 20 years.
“I started this business in 2002. I came to Mumbai from Srinagar in search of work. I had just finished my diploma. When I first arrived here, I attended a few exhibitions that piqued my interest. So I started the shawl business. It was going well until Covid struck.
We had to start our business online during Covid. So we started with Amazon, Flipkart, and Snapdeal; there weren’t many buyers there, but we somehow survived.”
The phenomenal rise of online trade in post Covid era has had both positive and negative impacts on the sale of Kashmiri handicrafts. While online platforms provide wider reach and accessibility to customers, they have also presented many challenges for the traditional handicraft industry.
Many individual artisans and small-scale producers lack the necessary infrastructure, resources and digital skills to effectively engage in online sales. Many struggle to navigate e-commerce platforms, handle logistics, or market their products online, putting them at a disadvantage in the digital marketplace.
Endorsing this notion, Shah says changing buying preferences of consumers following Covid-19 is adversely affecting trade of Kashmiri businessmen based in Mumbai.
“This increased competition can make it harder for Kashmiri handicrafts to stand out, as buyers now have a plethora of options to choose from”, says S A Rizvi, who till recently headed Kashmir Govt Arts Emporium at Fort area.
“Online shoppers often look for competitive pricing and discounts. Individual Kashmiri artisans and sellers can not afford to lower their prices which will impact their profitability. Even if they do it this will be at the cost of the uniqueness and craftsmanship of handicrafts”, Rizvi elaborated.
When asked why he discounts the value of online trade of Kashmiri handicrafts, Rizvi says Kashmiri handicrafts which are known for their intricate designs and traditional techniques, and cultural significance need an elaborate explanation in front of a buyer which according to him online platforms may not always effectively convey. “The tactile and visual experience of seeing and feeling the craftsmanship may be lost in online transactions, making it harder to communicate the true value of these crafts.”
Moreover the online marketplace, he says, is not immune to the sale of counterfeit or mass-produced imitations of Kashmiri handicrafts. This, according to Rizvi, not only undermines the market for authentic products but can also deceive buyers who may unknowingly purchase inferior-quality items at a cheaper price.
The fast pace of life and changing preferences and evolving tastes of consumers remains a serious challenge to handicraft industry, Kashmiri traders here believe.
Furthermore, the increased availability of mass-produced and cheaper alternatives has also impacted the demand for Kashmiri handicrafts. Machine-made replicas flood the market, often resembling the intricate designs of authentic Kashmiri products.
“Only a few would feel the lack of essence and soul that handmade crafts possess”, says Rizvi.
These replicas are often more affordable, making them an attractive choice for budget-conscious buyers.
Economic factors have also played a role in the declining demand. The fluctuating economy, rising inflation, and changing consumer spending patterns have resulted in reduced purchasing power among Mumbai’s population. Handicrafts, often considered luxury items, have taken a backseat as consumers prioritize more essential needs.
“Everything is now easily accessible, but people must understand the essence of handloom, what handloom means, and that handloom takes time. So, if the market has been declining for 10-15 years, the main reason is machine-made products. There is also stiff competition from places like Jaipur, Agra, or Badohi in terms of carpets, and Punjab in terms of shawls and stoles,” added Shah.
Paras Khan says he is not too optimistic either.
“I don’t see much room for improvement because this was a family-run business passed down from generation to generation. As a third-generation owner of my small business, I’m not sure if my children will carry on the family tradition. I believe they might not. Because the younger generation isn’t interested. They prefer working in the private sector. I’m not certain about the government claims because bureaucrats don’t have that mindset. They say “Make in India,” “Skill India,” but the talk is different and the work is different. If the government truly wants to improve this, it must collaborate with promising entrepreneurs who want to see change in this sector. Many enterprising young people are attempting to revive this fading art. The government must encourage the younger generation to get involved and show them that this is not a hopeless cause”, Khan said.
Despite sounding pessimistic Khan has some praise for the government initiatives taken in recent past. “One positive step taken by the government is that there was a lot of deception by traders who were simply selling machine-made, phoney products in the name of Kashmir. It was seriously affecting the business. So the government is doing a good job of putting a stop to this and seizing such places where such malpractices occur. QR code based labels are now being placed on authentic crafts like Pashmina shawls and hand knotted carpets so that customers can learn where the product was made and who the weaver is. Such actions are admirable and greatly appreciated. Because we need to establish a baseline for this industry. When such fundamental standards are met, small-scale traders are encouraged to do more work. Entrepreneurship and governance should go hand in hand to improve this.”
The Government of Jammu and Kashmir, through its Handicraft and Handloom Department, has off late initiated the process of bringing various crafts under the Geographical Indications Act. This is being done to prevent low-quality and machine-made products from damaging the genuine Kashmir handicraft brand. The Act has already been granted for authentic Kashmiri crafts like Pashmina, Kani and Sozni shawls, hand-knotted Carpets, papier-mâché and woodwork like Khatamband, Walnut Wood Carving. Seven more crafts have been enlisted for the registration, as per reports.
And at the same time, says Yasir, “Government needs to do more. This trade is dwindling by the day. Not only that, but all of the art in the country is on decline. GST is another factor. When GST was introduced, how were people who did not even have an Aadhar card supposed to complete these formalities? And without GST, this work is rendered ineffective. As a result, people are in pain. Initially, there were no taxes on art and craft products. There was no tax on handmade items. Everything is taxed now. The government should waive off taxes for people working in the arts and crafts and traders who are below the poverty line.”
Hussain suggests that “if the government is serious enough to run its showrooms, the biggest bottleneck that we face today is a lack of staff, and efforts should be made to employ more people.” That can solve 70% of our problems.
Abid Hussain, the new manager at the Kashmir Government Arts Emporium however sounds upbeat. ”Market for our products is bouncing back. We are performing well except for off season times when footfall dwindles. Our sales performance during the previous fiscal year was outstanding. All our crafts are in demand except for crewel and Numdas which are getting fewer customers. There is an excellent future for our products provided we bring in innovation and keep the designs in tune with the market requirements,” he told Kashmir Observer.
He also added “Covid had a significant impact on our business, and we were badly hit. Sales fell to their lowest point, resulting in the accumulation of recurring liabilities. We have been unable to clear those liabilities till now.”
Some Of The Popular Kashmiri Products
Pashmina Shawls: Pashmina shawls are made from fine cashmere wool and are renowned for their softness, warmth, and intricate embroidery. They are highly valued for their quality and are in high demand across India.
Papier-mâché: Kashmiri papier-mâché is a traditional craft that involves intricate hand-painted designs on various objects like boxes, vases, trays, and decorative items. The vibrant colors and detailed artwork make these products popular among art lovers and collectors.
Wood Carvings: Kashmir is known for its walnut trees, and artisans create exquisite carvings from the wood. From furniture pieces to decorative boxes, bowls, and trays, walnut wood carvings are highly prized for their intricate designs and rich brown hues.
Carpets and Rugs: Only next to Iran in popularity, Kashmiri carpets and rugs come with intricate designs and high-quality craftsmanship. Hand-knotted silk and wool carpets with intricate patterns and vibrant colors have been among the most sought-after Kashmiri handicrafts.
Embroidered Dresses: Kashmiri embroidery is renowned for its intricate patterns and delicate thread work. Traditional dresses like phirans (loose-fitting tunics), shalwar kameez, and sarees embellished with Kashmiri embroidery are popular among women across India.
Copperware: Kashmiri copperware includes items like samovars (traditional tea pots), utensils, bowls, and decorative pieces. The unique designs and intricate engravings on copper make these products highly desirable.
Namdas: Namdas are traditional Kashmiri felted rugs or mats made from wool. They are known for their intricate designs and are used as floor coverings or decorative wall hangings.
Crewel Embroidery: Kashmiri crewel embroidery involves intricate patterns stitched with woolen threads on fabrics like curtains, cushion covers and bedspreads. The fine craftsmanship and colorful designs make crewel embroidered products popular.
Sozni: Sozni embroidery is a type of fine needlework done on shawls, sarees, and other garments. The intricate patterns and delicate stitches give these products a unique appeal, making them popular among fashion enthusiasts.
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